Cocktails, appetizers, and surf n turf dinner without the wheat was wonderful
A Food COLUMN by Heather Davis,
This spring, a tragedy befell this lonesome writer. Gluten started giving me headaches.
This was particularly tragic for me because, as I joke with friends, gluten was, “like, my whole personality…” When I was vegetarian in my idealistic 20’s, I subsisted on pasta. Up until this spring, I had some sort of bread product for almost every meal: blueberry muffins from Giant for breakfast, grilled cheese for lunch, linguine for dinner. As a newcomer to this region, I only recently discovered the local delicacy, that magical loaf, salt rising bread. So savory, with a perfect crunch when toasted, thinking about it makes my mouth water and my heart grieve.
At home this new reality hasn’t been so bad. I’ve been leaning on other staples: rice with beans, frozen tamales from Trader Joes. I even learned how to make a pretty mean pad thai with sauce and noodles from Wegmans, finished with a zesty squeeze of lime. I have taken every opportunity to be a global cuisine queen.
Eating out has been more of a struggle. Sometimes, even the french fries are coated with a flour batter. However, I’ve found that most local places have at least one or two dishes that will do. On Friday, with a gluten-friendly friend in tow, I visited The Grill at the Wellsville Country Club.
I love when restaurants serve bread as guests are seated as a lovely gesture of hospitality. My friend reported that the bread at The Grill was soft, either French or Italian loaf, and went well with the accompanying oil and vinegar dipping bowl.
We started with cocktails and an appetizer of hand cut Old Bay french fries served with roumalade and ketchup. The thin-cut fries were fantastic, the basket included an ample number of long pieces, and we enjoyed the perfect combination of crunchy exterior and soft, well done interior. The Old Bay Seasoning paired excellently with the roumalade.
Just some of the recent specials and features coming out of the Wellsville Country Club kitchen
My drink, Midnight Garden, a tequila based cocktail, combined blackberry, lime and sage flavors with a sage leaf garnish, was pleasant, complex and not too sweet. I was impressed by the originality of the sage, which grounded the sharper flavors of the blackberry and lime. My friend ordered Spider Cider, which was a little sweeter than apple cider on its own, and was missing the maple sugar rim described on the menu, which may have made the drink too sweet had it been included.
I’d intended to order the wedge salad and to request that grilled salmon be added, a dish I’ve ordered before and enjoyed. However, when I arrived, I was in the mood for a baked potato, so I ordered the surf-n-turf from the specials menu.
The whole dish was well flavored, and came with three huge, juicy shrimp, perfectly grilled, which I dipped in the leftover roumalade. The steak was enormous, most of which I took home with me, but was seared with a beautiful grill pattern, and was juicy, cooked to the requested medium temperature perfectly. The asparagus side was excellent, brushed with olive oil, had a pleasant char at the crown and a fresh crunch in the base.
The baked potato was piping hot and cooked all the way through, allowing the butter, and the cheese that I scored from the salad bar, to melt completely into the soft potato flesh.
For dessert, I ordered a delightful creme brulee that featured a soft, light custard, not too rich, under that classic caramelized crust that is so satisfying to break into. The crust had a deeper browning on one side, and the range of flavors, from caramel to burnt sugar, was a nice touch, and balanced the sweetness of the custard.
The Grill at the Wellsville Country Club is one of my favorite restaurants in Wellsville, and by the full dining room, I can see it’s a local favorite as well. Many people don’t realize that the restaurant is always open to the public, unless they are having a private event.
If you haven’t been lately, I highly recommend making a reservation for your next special occasion. Last year, I came to The Grill for my birthday and met a birthday twin. Maybe you will too.
Follow the Wellsville Country Club on Facebook for daily specials and events. Reservations are not required but recommended, the restaurant is open from 11am until 9pm, Tuesday through Saturday. Call ahead anytime, 585-593-6114.
Heather Davis is a artist and writer who enjoys the creative side of life. Heather also helps put on the regular IMPROV series at the David A. Howe Public Library, more on that below. Contact her anytime for great food and or adventures ideas. heatherjodavis@gmail.com
